Life in Zimbabwe 2010

I probably gave the impression in my last post (see a month in Zimbabwe link at the bottom of this page) that I've been dossing around and generally living it large in rural Zim and while to an extent that's true, in that even the work has been really enjoyable, I have still been working hard.

Part of why some of you may have been misinformed that I've just been larking about is down to the fact that I've had no specific role and instead have been getting involved in what ever needed to be done. This has included putting in pipes across the apprentices (appy's) fields in preparation for the new irrigation system intended to water the crops via the nearby dam. I've also assisted a surveryor guy in more accurately marking out the fields so that each one is the same size, something that hadn't been done until now and will ultimately be helpful in increasing the efficiency of farming in the fields, as well as this I've spent time in the appy's fields lending a hand to whatever they may be doing with their crop at the time, whether its clearing of weeds, digging trenches, harvesting or any other of the other tasks required of an Ebenezer appy farmer. When I havn't been doing any of the above, I've been assisting Stephen (the pastor of the local church) in the variety of odd jobs he is required to do throughout any given week. Nothing I've had to do has been a chore, although at the same time some of it hasn't been easy and I take my hat off to those appy's doing extremely physical work in the baking sun for much of the day, only to do similar again the next day. I have not just been working though and have been fortunate enough to see and experience the contrasting life styles Zimmers can lead in this amazing country. I don't think I'll ever get tired listening to the personal accounts of people living in Zim over the last 10 years and the absolutely crazy situations they have faced in that time.

We in the "west" complain about the most petty and pathetic things so it's very humbling to then hear of someone have their pension or savings wiped out completely by sky rocketing inflation or to have your land you've been on for a number of generations removed from you at gun point by militants or going to the shops and finding no food on the shelves of supermarkets. Any 1 of these experiences would be incredibly stressful and probably more than I could handle and yet this nation has experienced all of them and more. Every new story I hear has a different edge due to their varying circumstances. Despite all of that, many of the people have continued on with joy in their hearts, which can only be a gift from God as the natural human tendency in all of us is to moan and fight in the dog eat dog manner that deep down everyone can relate to. As I've alluded to already, I've been very grateful to have had the opportunity to meet and spend some quality time with so many people who have welcomed me in, opening up their homes and their lives to me, putting me up for a night or 2 at a time, when over the weekends I have either gone into town (Bulawayo) or visited Harare. This hospitality has been in most cases, without ever first having met or spoken to me and it's so good to know that I have brothers and sisters around the world who will readily offer a bed and a meal to a stranger with the only connection being we believe in the same God and are in the same group of churches. The coach trip to Harare, the capital, was an event in itself as I was "priviledged" to have Whitney Houston's greatest hits DVD playing on the way there. It was so surreal passing wild bush land, flat grassy plains and small clusters of traditional homestead huts while listening to "I'm every woman"! On the return leg I was subjected to Shania Twain's "hits"- in both cases the term "hits" is used sparingly. I was only in Harare for a weekend so can't say I saw much but did manage to bump into my pastor from my church in London and attended the son, of the couple I was staying withs, BMX tournament as well as take part in a I'm a celebrity-type challenge which was all good fun. Again, I wasn't there long but I think I do prefer Bulawayo to Harare in the slower pace of life as well as (from what I saw) much more breathtaking surrounding scenery and I really like the N'debele (in da belly) people while in Harare the dominant tribe are Shona.

My in da belly has progressed since I spoke last so that I can do a number of the variety of confusing ways of greeting, saying thank you and other things but unfortunately I've not managed to get my lazy, slack jaw round the clicks that they use in the language. Some of their tongue twisters that are taught to help learn the language are incredible as essentially they're just a lot of clicking and popping of the mouth but are actually sentences (even if it is a great green goat type of nonsense sentence).

I must also be one of the few people to make the claim, despite being in Zim for a decent amount of time, of not reaching Vic Falls. Some people would, if they came to Zim, ONLY go there - thinking that is all there is to the country to visit. It was not for lack of trying that I didn't make it and I actually get the strong sense that for some reason I wasn't supposed to go this time. "This time" is intentionally heavily loaded as I undoubtedly intend to return to Zim at some point soon, though as to duration and purpose (other than to visit Ms V Falls of course) I'm still uncertain. I did manage to visit Victoria's little known step sister, once removed, Lumeni Falls and while it can't be compared to it's more well known relative, she is none the less, pretty attractive. Only an hour outside of Bulawayo, Lumeni is actually not known by even a lot of Bulawayan's (Bulawayites? Bulawayoans?!) and what's more you're able to swim (if you're that way able) in the pools that are found staggered up the side of the falls. The pools were deceptively deep and the cool water was warm enough to be refreshing and pleasant. Because so few people know about it, our group of 6 had it, and the surrounding Matobos mountainous scenery, to ourselves.

However my time in Zim has, it is with a heavy heart, I regret to say, quickly ended and so munching on maputi & freshly picked mangoes, sucking on marula's, playing with sudza and all the other diverse experiences I have had, have for now become memories that I will have to wait to rediscover. My flight with Air Zim to Jo'burg went without any real hitch though they overbook their flights so that there can be more people than seats, so that it becomes, first come, first serve. They also have the infamous title of having the most expensive costing flight per mile route in the world, at £274 between Bulawayo and Jo'burg. I got to SA fine and was unexpectedly but pleasantly greeted at arrivals by the car hire guy who, after carrying one of my bags went onto inform me of an upgrade of my car. I had innitially booked a VW chico (something not even available in the UK since the 80's) with no air con to a new smart Proton with all the extras! To be honest i've been almost embarassed at how much it sticks out particularly when driving through the township in Clarens, as I did yesterday, when helping with home visits to HIV and other terminally ill locals that the Dihlabeng church seek to meet on a regular basis. The visits provide a number of services including obviously someone they can talk to, as they are house bound so get out little, but also the offer of prayer and nutrititious drinks are given which all are welcomely received. I've also helped with the after school play group that the church also runs intentionally for the most vulnerable and at risk children in the area. Many of the children have been not only neglected and malnourished but also seriously violently and sexually abused by relatives and other local adults in their community and I heard about an absolutely horrifying story about a sex game involving children as young as 5 with adults that although not widespread is still not uncommon. My 3-4 hr journey to Clarens was a bit boring and actually it required more levels of self-control and patience than I currently posess to remain within the 120 km/hr speed limit on the long, straight and empty roads I travelled on ... The less said about that, the better!